9 November 2014

Cambodia | The amazing Angkor temples of Siem Reap

OK I know this is a food blog. But just so you know, I am applying to be a travel blogger too. Anyway, this is a place which I record all my happy adventures during my downtime, which includes food and travelling!

Angkor Wat is probably one of the most mystic places I've ever been. Once upon a time, the kings of Cambodia built temples of worship to honour their gods. Each king who reigned built his series of temples, to honour his god of worship, as well as his ancestors (1 for father, 1 for mother etc). So you can imagine how many temples were built over the centuries.

We got a 3 day pass for USD 40, although we only planned to visit Angkor temples for 2 days. Somehow, only 1 day and 3 day passes were available for sale. We visited some of the most important temples. We got a tour guide and driver to bring us around.

Bayon temple
This was the first temple we went. Our tour guide was very knowledgeable and he showed us the picture perfect spots. Like the second photo below which had a nice reflection of Bayon temple. We call this the "face" temple because there were faces of a same man being carved on the temples. Initially, we thought it was Buddha because of the round face. But our tour guide enlightened us that it is the face of Cambodia's legendary king, Jayavarman VII. He built this temple to show his benevolent face as well as to exude authority.






Intricate carvings on the walls - depicting soldiers and elephants in a war 
An Apsara dancer - which is a beautiful woman - commonly found on the carvings/statues

Precarious sighting #1 - Seriously the top of this thing looks dangerous and ready to fall.
Baphuon temple
This was one of my favourite temples. Because it has a long flight of stairs.  Oh yeah I love stairs. I mean, look at the awesome view when you get to the top. This temple was built earlier than the Bayon temple and it is actually a Hindu temple. A bit of interesting background: Cambodia today is largely a Buddhist country that practises Theravada Buddhism. This is slightly different from the Buddhism practiced by Singaporeans which is Mahayana Buddhism. I am not sure what are the differences. To be explored. But in the historical days, the kings of Angkor practised both Hinduism and Buddhism. So depending on which king reigned, the temple built would be either Hindu or Buddhist temple according to his religious beliefs.



Froggie seeking enlightenment too..

Why do they climb the precarious-looking stairs?
To see these walkways with huge windows
And for this aerial view
Huge solid bricks that could weather the storm and age of time.
Terrace of elephants
These walls which were decorated with stone formations of elephants indicated that elephants played an important part in the historic days. Elephants were used in wars, as well as in agriculture. These walls formed a terrace which the king held celebrations and ceremonies.


One of the elephant's trunk was stolen or destroyed by environment. Nobody knows.

Ta Prohm
Ta Prohm was the temple that appeared in the movie Tomb Raider. No Angelina Jolie-wannabes here please. The temple looks really dangerous with the trees' roots growing all over the temples. These strong tall trees looked like they were swallowing the temples. Someday, the temples are going to be destroyed by the weight of these trees. I would think it is a dilemma whether to cut a hundred year old tree and save the temples, or to save the trees and let them ruin the temples.




Precarious sighting #2 - roof hanging over a door frame
The baby dinosaur carving could lend consistency to the myth that dinosaurs existed

Mysterious face on the temple wall that is partially hidden by the overgrowing trees



Angkor Wat
The king of all the temples. Angkor Wat is also the most important temple in Siem Reap and it is a UNESCO world heritage site. This is also the temple that appears on the Cambodia national flag, and also the temple that flooded every tourist's instagram/facebook.

We visited on an afternoon and entered from the west gate, instead of from the main entrance on the east. Mainly because it was quieter and less crowded with the other tourists.

This temple was a Hindu buddhist subsequently converted to a Buddhist temple and it is gigantic.




Below shows a huge walkway along the sides of the temple. On the walls were bas relief (sculpted carvings) depicting the Hindu story of Ocean of Milk. In this mythical story, the gods and the demons had to work together to milk a elixer called Amrita from a huge serpent, like in a tug of war. The top right hand picture shows the demons. The bottom right hand picture shows the gods. In the middle is the Hindu god Vishnu. The demons and gods had an agreement that the Amrita belongs to whichever side it appears. Unfortunately, the Amrita appeared at the demons' side. Vishnu pulled wool over the demons by sending apasaras which were beautiful women to distract them, and took away the Amrita from the demons. Vishnu then passed the Amrita to the gods. This story is important in Hinduism as it tells of the importance that the elixer should never fall into the hands of the demons.

This ocean of milking is seen at entrances of many Angkor temples.




Missing buddha head - possibly looted
One of the towers of Angkor Wat



There were at least 100 Buddha statues in this temple. However, not all of them are here. Our tour guide said some were stolen and now in Thailand museums. He asked us to go Thailand and investigate ourselves.




There were so many tourists and given the steep entrance fee charged, it did not gel with the poverty in Cambodia that we saw. Our tour guide said Angkor Wat is owned by a Vietnamese company. It's really sad to know that Angkor Wat, which is the Cambodians' roots, heritage, culture, and national treasure, was sold to a foreign company. Whether this is true or not, it still doesn't show that the funds were put to the correct uses, given the underdevelopment of the country.

We woke up at 4am to catch the sunrise at Angkor Wat. We left the hotel at around 5am. The road to Angkor Wat was unlit. There was unknown darkness on both sides of the roads. The driver was guided by car headlights only.

When we reached the temple, we had to walk into the compound with the lake. It was a dark walk from the entrance to the lake. So do bring a strong torch light as there are a lot of steps and ledges along the way.

We could hear morning drums and chanting from the nearby monastery, which were disturbed by the excitement of the tourists. The place was very packed, especially at the spots which were best for photo-taking. Luckily we were the early birds.

It was a zen moment to see the sky change colour, and the tranquillity and serenity that surrounded the Angkor Wat towers made me feel at peace with the world.. until a Chinese tourist tried to block everyone's view.

Presenting to you the beauty of Angkor Wat sunrise. #nofilter #natural





We were told this is rare sighting that the sun rises above the middle tower. Because it only happens in two months - March & September. We had breakfast nearby after which we continued with the rest of the temples.
Preah Khan
This temple was built by King Jayavarman VII to honour his father. So the Ta Prohm aka tomb raider temple was built for the mother, this was for the father. I don't really like this temple as it had a lot of spiderwebs, musty smell and a lot algae.


The Ocean of Milk statues flanked the entrance.



It was said that King Jayavarman wanted to merge Buddhism and Hinduism together. Hence, the temples included statues of both Hindu gods (first picture below) and Buddhist gods (second picture below). However, his successor did not allow Buddhism and hence the Buddhist gods statues were removed.


The tree in picture below was cut because the temple would be destroyed if it continued to grow.



Precarious sighting #3 - Glad I made it back alive!
Banteay Srei
This was the smallest temple, and also the most different from the rest. The temple was made of pink sandstone. It was suspected that the temple was built by women, because of the really detailed and delicate carvings found.








Pre Rup

Pre Rup is kind of creepy vibe to me. Because it means "turning the body" and it refers to a traditional method of cremation. So it means this served as a royal cremation place.


Guess what's this?
Nevertheless, the view on top was great. After a flight of stairs again. 

After visiting the temples, I felt amazed how religion played such a significant role in ancient civilisation. I guess in the past when science and technology are not that advanced, humans turn to gods for help and peace. And it's also quite interesting that these ancient civilisations built by ancestors continue to ensure livelihood of many Cambodians today, and the tourism industry it created forms an important part of the Cambodia's economy. 

Stay tuned for the last part of this series which I will record my adventures in the other side of Siem Reap, as well as the food I ate, and a cooking class I attended!

1 November 2014

Cambodia - A day in Phnom Penh


When my friend jio-ed me to go Cambodia, the princess in me responded, "huh?". But after that, the adventurer cum tomb raider wannabe in me responded, "ok!".

It turned out to one of the best trips I ever had. And it dawned on me the beauty of South East Asia and how blessed I am to live so near to these gems.

First-time backpacking

As we would fly into Phnom Penh, capital city of Cambodia, in the morning and not staying in Phnom Penh for the night, we decided to go with a backpack instead of trolley luggage. This is the first time that I backpack you know.  With a Nike backpack proudly sponsored by my baby brother, I started my Backpacking 101 crash course.

What went in:
Clothes, toiletries, raincoat, chargers and adaptors.My first aid cum medicine collection (Antacid for tummy discomfort, iron tablets, multivitamins, masks, charcoal tablet, panadol, lozenges for throat, flu tablets, inflammation tablet, salon pas, mosquito repellent patch, handyplast). This nike bag has a separate compartment for shoes and water bottle cooler. Awesome.

That's all. I am starting to love backpacking. It forces me to bring only things that I really need instead of trying to bring unnecessary things.

Yes the medicine collection was necessary.

My first tuk tuk ride - treat to the five senses!

We took a 7am Tiger Airways flight to Phnom Penh because it was the cheapest and the timing works best. But the flight delayed by 1 hour. $&^@)*#

I would highly recommend taking the tuk tuk into the city. It's an open air motorcycle modified to have covered passenger seats at the back. You would be treated to a 45-minutes five senses experience.

  • Look:  open view of the streets. We were astonished by how they can squeeze 3 or 4 people on a motorbike. 
  • Smell: aromas from the open stall roadside vendors, "aromas" from roadside garbage that's uncleared, diesel oil, incense from the temples 
  • Hear: the incessant horns by impatient drivers in this fast paced traffic game which the most gung-ho sets the rules. 
  • Taste: taste of the dust from the roads
  • Touch: It's quite bumpy and you can feel the motor beating at your bum
Transport efficiency level: 1
Transport efficiency level: 99
Going to market with big colourful weaved baskets


Blue skies covered with cables
Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda

We went to the royal palace which was the home to King of Cambodia (though he no longer lives there). The silver pagoda houses several Buddhism relics. I had to change to long pants because shorts were not allowed. 


I love the intricate details in their roofs' designs. It has an Indian and Thai flavour and at the same time Buddhist. 













Lunch at Romdeng - The best meal we had in Cambodia
As it was going to pour, we quickly headed for lunch. This place smells of lemongrass. One of its speciality is the exotic tarantula (giant spiders). Nope I didn't order it. Yes I am not adventurous. 








Romdeng is actually part of a network which helps Cambodian youths and street children by giving them a place to train and become part of hospitality industry. Part of the money you spend on the food or their souvenirs will be catered for that. It certainly beats giving street children money as you can give a man a fish, and he eats for a day.. But teach him how to fish, and he can eat for a lifetime.


Duck spring rolls which were very nice, served piping hot and the fillings were fresh and the duck meat was tender.


Red tea- it's quite lemon-heavy and sour sweet.

Coffee - Hmmm it tasted quite strong.

And presenting to you, the best dish I ate this whole trip- Romdeng's Amok! It's heavenly nice. Amok is a Cambodian specialty and made by steaming curry coconut milk, lemongrass, and fish ( tender soft mud fish). It is like otah.

I love everything about this dish- it's mild spiciness, the coconut cream paste, the soft fish meat, and it's cute elegant presentation in the folded banana leaf boat. Lovely Asian dish.

Romdeng's Amok set the bar high for future Amok dishes that we would eat. 



We also had a pomelo and prawn salad which the flavours and the cold prawns did not come together for me. The salad dressing tasted a bit weird which was like peanut taste. 


Total bill was only $19 for 2 persons... So cheap given that this is a nice restaurant setting.

Central market - get your overpriced souvenirs here

Central market is where the Cambodians do their grocery cum accessories cum electronics cum fashion cum everything shopping. We bought a magnet at $1. There wasn't much to shop about so we decided to head to the bus terminal for our bus to Siem Reap- home of Angkor Wat.





6 hour bus ride to Siem Reap - Encountering the real Cambodia


The road itself and the countryside scenery

When friends heard that we were going to take the bus from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, they were like, "huh you serious?", "please don't go", "bring a mask".

When you get reactions like this, you should be wondering why. 

After extending our research, we found out from google that the road is bumpy, full of potholes, very dusty. And the driver drives very fast. 

Nevertheless, we did lived to tell the tale. And it was one of the most memorable parts of the trip for me.

So we took this mini van bus called Golden Bayon. Not the best based on online reviews. But because we were heading in on a major holiday in Cambodia, the Phchum Ben festival which is a three day holiday to honour ancestors and pray to the dead, all the buses with better reviews were fully booked because the Cambodians were going back to their villages.

The highway
Transport efficiency level: 1000

The bus brought us through real Cambodia countryside. Attap Houses built on stilts. Padi fields.. Roaming goats.. I saw possibly the most number of goats on this trip than all my trips to the Singapore zoo combined. Hammock stations where people can sleep in the open lined occasionally along the dusty bumpy, and unmarked two way expressway. And there were no street lights at all... Zero. But because of that, I was able to admire the most beautiful starry sky I've ever seen.

Meeting friendly and trusting Cambodians

And during this trip, I find Cambodians to be really friendly people. We were waiting for bus at the bus station and two Cambodians actually helped to ensure we board the right bus. One Cambodian whose bus was also delayed like us helped us to search for other bus companies. And I was not sure if Cambodians were overly trusting or simple minded. Another Cambodian just left his bag on the seats while he went to the toilet. I'm like aren't you afraid people will take it? And our tuk tuk driver was also very trusting. We agreed with him upfront that he will take us to 3 places for a fee. When we reached the first place and left him to wait for us while we tour the royal palace ourselves, he didn't ask for a partial payment. I mean we could have left the royal palace without looking for him and pay him for bringing us to royal palace. I think if he had met other less nice people like us, he would be on the losing end.

Dinner - I am falling in love with Cambodian cooking

We stopped over for dinner. Our $4.50 dinner shared between me and my friend. The lemongrass chicken was awesome, except chicken was a bit hard.


Home is where the heart is

Out of the bus of 14 passengers, 11 are local Khmers returning home to celebrate Phchum Ben festival. My friend, I and another Caucasian are the only foreigners. The road was still unlit. But some of the passengers requested driver to drop them off along the highway. One mother was waiting for her daughter along the highway. So sweet. We were wondering how the passengers could make out that they have reached home as it was really dark.

What can I say? Home is where the heart is.. As long as the heart is with the home, one will be able to find his way home.

After 6 hours of bus ride, we finally reached Siem Reap, home to Angkor Wat.

To be continued...
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